A Retrospective of Chanel TV Advertising

Greetings to all and my posse of followers! So, having narrowly avoided dying of exhaustion, leading to a potential possible mental breakdown (Is playing with a plasma ball for ten minutes, continuously saying nothing but 'Mwahaha' in a variety of different ways then listening to 'I am the Walrus' three times in a row, while dancing Gangnam Style worrying? At all?) which I think I am now drawing away from, I return to my blog. Tomorrow, it is my Birthday, and I shall turn seventeen - cue a chorus of 'Happy Birthday' by Altered Images - and at the end of next week, I shall be off on a much-needed holiday in the South of France which may delay my being sent to the nearest Asylum by a few weeks. At the same time, I have now accepted that nothing has come of the audition which I previously mentioned, and I am moving on. :) Life doesn't end just because little things go wrong (Or don't happen, as is the case here)

 

So... here is my retrospective of Chanel TV advertising. These are mainly adverts for No.5, but I have a Coco Mademoiselle advertisement too and a few for men's perfumes, Chance and No.19. On the subject of the vow in my last post to write more regularly, this was sort of going to be posted on Saturday, but I was just too tired to do more than find the videos. Anyway, I hope you like the videos I've found. I know that the quality is not great in all of them, but I honestly spent ages trying to find the best quality.

 

 

CHANEL NO.5

 

A timeless classic that still is a number one seller over eighty years after its launch in 1921.
Created by Earnest Beaux, No.5 was the first perfume ever created using so much Aldehydes, which gives the fragrance its sparkle. Legend has is that Beaux presented Chanel with ten fragrances to choose from. (Or so the story goes...) Chanel chose perfume number five, hence the name.

 

Top Notes

Ylang-Ylang, Neroli, Aldehydes

Middle Notes
Jasmine, Mayrose 

Base Notes
Sandalwood, Vetiver

 

 

1) Not an ad, but the Baudruchage... I just thought it was quite a cute, short little video.

 

2) During the 1960s the ads had diminished the allure of Chanel No. 5, identifying it with a scent for sweet, proper co-eds whose style bibles were teen-age fashion magazines. In the 1970s the brand name needed re-vitalization. For the first time in its long history it ran the risk of being labelled as mass market and passé. The fragrance was removed from drug stores and similar outlets. Outside advertising agencies were dropped. The remaking was re-imagined by Jacques Helleu, the artistic director for "Parfums Chanel." Helleu chose French actress Catherine Deneuve for the new face of Chanel. The print ads showcased the iconic sculpture of the bottle. Here is a Catherine Deneuve advertisement from 1978. Do enjoy! 

 

3) Another Catherine Deneuve, but this one earlier, from 1973. It is known as "Whispered," by Helmut Newton.

 

 

 

 

 

4) From 1986 - the earliest advert with Carole Bouquet which I can confirm (or at least think I can confirm the date, but humour me if it is not the case) This one, directed by Ridley Scott, is known as 'Monuments' and with the sound of Nina Simone's "My Baby Just Cares for Me," it is a stunning piece of advertising. Carole Bouquet looks too beautiful for words.

 

5) Advertising film from 1990 and inspired by Rita Hayworth in 'Gilda', I think this is truly beautiful and I am glad that, even in the english advertising, I do not believe they changed the French words uttered by Carole Bouquet. I can hardly imagine it working in any other language... though Gilda was in English.

 

6) Another advertising film from 1990, known as "La star," by Ridley Scott, with Carole Bouquet and Music: "Sea of Love" - This is a lovely advert, very chic. I like the marine influence and the lighting but, above all, I must say that I love that hat with the red lipstick. Classy and Elegant. 

 

7) In the 1950s the glamour of Chanel No. 5 was reignited by Marilyn Monroe, with her unsolicited endorsement of the fragrance providing invaluable, free publicity. After all, we all know that in a 1954 interview, when asked what she wore to bed, the film star famously responded: "Five drops of Chanel No. 5." This advert from the 90s with the inimitable Carole Bouquet pays homage to that in a charming way rather than the slightly creepy 'J'adore Dior' advert with Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich and Grace Kelly.

 

8) This has a very artistic quality... all the ones from this era do, but this one has, I feel, something particularly poetic and beautifully crafted. "I am made of Blue Sky and Golden Light." I am afraid I know next to nothing of this advertisement. Only that it's from around 1979-early 80s, and I am incertain of who the model is. I really cannot tell from the angle and can only suggest that it may be Carole Bouquet, but I am not sure it looks like her and I would also say that it's too early to be her. What is interesting about this commercial, if you are looking at it properly, is the shoes to the right side of the woman.  Well, if you notice at the beginning while she is laying poolside, she has two shoes next to her...then when the plane's shadow passes over there is only one shoe (she must have knocked it in the pool). The man goes in to retrieve it for her and that is what he is carrying when he gets out of the pool. When he "disappears" the shoe "reappears" next to the other one. See? The devil is in the detail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 9) Advertisement from about 1982, directed by Ridley Scott, "I Don't Want to Set the World On Fire" by the Ink Spots and, I believe, covered by Bobby Scott. Perfect, even with a shadow of airplane gliding up the Transamerica building in San Francisco - slightly eerie since 2001.  

 

 

 

 

 

10) Synchronised Swimmer, Model and Actress, Estella Warren, in this ad from... 1998? Though somebody told me it was 2002. How should I know? I was three and seven respectively in those years. But... it is a Luc Besson.

 

11) Advertising film from 1998, known as "Le loup," another one by Luc Besson, with Estella Warren and Music by Danny Elfman from Edward Scissorhands.... and wouldn't we all like to know where the WALL of Chanel No.5 is kept?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Le Film - Chanel No.5

 

Advertising film from 2004. I have great respect for Nicole Kidman as an actress, and for Baz Luhrmann as a director, and for the beautiful 'Claire de Lune' by Claude Debussy and Rodrigo Santoro isn't exactly uneasy on the eye but, as much as I think this is stunningly shot and I like the fact it has a storyline, it left me a little... indifferent? It's very Moulin Rouge (a film I really enjoy) and everything, modernised, but the highlight for me was the Debussy. I don't think there is a particular reason for this; just personal preference.

 

 



 

 

 This is more my scene, advertising wise. Audrey Tautou being stalked by a handsome man while onboard something very reminiscent of the Orient Express, heading towards Istanbul.What could be better? One can also, of course, recognise the beautiful work of Jean Pierre Jeunet in directing this and I think this more subtle and charming advert is a perfect example of a modern one.

 

 

 

 

 

So... now we've seen those, what are we thinking about the new Chanel No.5 adverts with Brad Pitt?

Me? I am not wholly appreciative. I think I understand what Chanel was trying to go for, but personally I find it lamentable - cheesy and rather pretentious, not like the classy adverts which the TV audience have been treated to in the past. Yes, they wanted to refresh their image but I do not think this has worked. The only good which can come of this are the spoof videos which are certain to follow. Anyway, do take a moment to watch Brad Pitt's nonsensical ramblings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

COCO MADEMOISELLE

 

Top Notes

Orange, Bergamot, Grapefruit

 

Middle Notes

Litchi, Rose, Italian Jasmine

 

Base Notes

Indonesian Patchouli, Haitian Vetiver, Bourbon Vanilla, White Musk

 

Perfume launched in 2001, first with Kate Moss, before being replaced as definite spokeswoman with the lovley Keira Knightley in 2006, with the advert below (right) launched in 2007, directed by BAFTA Award winning director Joe Wright.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHANEL NO.19

 

Named after Chanel's birthday (19th August). A sophisticated scent which was created especially for Coco Chanel to use and to give to friends and favourite clients, Chanel No.19 is much less famous than No.5, but that does not mean that it has not been advertised in the past, even if it does not seem to be lately. I find these ads, mainly from the eighties, very charming. Of course, in every advertisement, there is subliminal messaging of what the product could bring you other than, in this case, a great perfume. This is the reason why it is most often Sunny in ads and why beautiful, young people in stylish clothes are used - they may even be on Holiday, and they most certainly drive a very nice car.

In this ad, the not-so-subliminal key message seems to be: "This perfume is great for kissing a man when he leasts expects it." Cue, images of a man looking surprised as a beautiful, confident, well-dressed young lady wearing Chanel No.19 leaps onto him. Ah yes. So THAT's what they are selling.... Sexual Confidence. :)

 

Top Notes

Galbanum, Bergamot, Neroli, Hyacinth

 

Middle Notes

Rose, Orris, Jasmine, Narcissus, Muguet, Ylang-Ylang 

 

Base Notes

 

 

Musk, Sandal, Oakmoss, Leather, Cedarwood

 

 

Anyway, it is a lovely perfume and I hope you like these ads I've dug up. Once again, sorry about the Quality of a couple of them.

 

1) An advert from Christmas 1989 with the Tagline. "Witty, confident, devastatingly Feminine" - Chanel No.19 - and doesn't the model look lovely? Nothing sneering and aggressive or particularly supermodel about her pretty but sensible flat shoes, oversized white blouse and blue jeans. In fact, I would say that the way she is dressed is the epitomy of off-duty chic. This is my favourite of the Chanel No.19 advertisements.

 

2) An advert from 1982. This time, we are at the races and everyone's money is on Horse No.19, whom we watch speed through the starting gates and win the race while a beautiful, elegant woman sits watching and a man speaks of the perfume. Chanel No. 19... exciting, audacious, bewitching and, of course, prodigious. A Fragance sure to excite your curiosity. If you do not believe me, then you will have to buy it and see for yourself.

 

3) An advert from 1990. The sound on this is quite low, so you might want to turn it up. Once again, the tagline is "Witty, confident, devastatingly Feminine" and this time we are visiting a filmset under the direction of a lovely dressed (I have to keep emphasising this point) female director. 

 

4) A Mediterranean feel to this one. Imagine the heat of the Summer. This is one I really cannot say much about. The model is familiar but I would not like to hazard a guess without being certain and I have no idea of the year. I can, however, say that the advertising music was composed by Pierre-Jean Gidon. Or  Georges Bodossian. I accidentally do not know which of the two it is.

 

5) I do not know the date on this one. If anyone has any idea, feel free to say so, but I can state that it features the model Patti Hansen (a.k.a. Mrs Keith Richards) This time the Tagline (following the same pattern of saying the name of the fragrance as the 1982 one, suggesting it is an ad from the early 1980s) is Chanel No.19 - Intriguing, Different and Devastatingly Sensual. That said, I would be glad if somebody who speaks better Spanish than my own would confirm this.

 

6) Another ad promoting Chanel No.19 as the perfect fragrance for catching men unawares with.a grab and a kiss, even while he is behind the wheel of a car. I am not sure but, even though he has stopped driving, I still think that it might be frowned upon as a health and safety hazard... he might accidentally step on the pedal of the car. Well, it is the 'Outspoken' Chanel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In a recent revamp of No. 19, Chanel has drastically reduced the products available. In the UK the original splash bottles and refillable sprays of Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum have been discontinued, as have the two sizes of refillable Parfum spray. The Parfum is now only available in 7.5ml and 15ml size bottles (the Parfum has been discontinued in the USA altogether). The range of bath and body products, which was previously identical to the range available in No. 5, has now been reduced to Body Lotion and Bath and Shower Gel.

 

 

 

 

COCO

 

Top Notes

Angelica, Mimosa, Frangipani, Mandarin

Middle Notes

Cascarilla, Orange Flower, Bulgarian Rose, Jasmine 

Base Notes

Labdanum, Ambrette Seed, Opopanax, Benzoin, Tonka, Vanilla

 

A Fragrance launched in 1984, this advert with Vanessa Paradis in "La cage aux oiseaux" dates from 1992. This is one of my all time favourite perfume advertisements, known as l'esprit de Chanel. Classy, elegant and, I feel, very well thought out... every detail is perfect, from Coco Chanel herself (well, someone pretending to be her) standing at the window to the cat looking at the songbird that is Vanessa Paradis, as though just waiting for her to come in reach of his sharp claws. What more could you want from a perfume ad?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHANCE

 

 Chance Fragrance Notes: Patchouli, Musk, Vetiver, Orris, Vanilla and Jasmine.

 

Perfume launched in 2002.

 

The Fun thing to do here? Well, you might notice that, after the first older advertisement, there are three ads with the same basis. It's great fun to set them off in a round since they all take the same amount of time and have the same music. Note: It doesn't take a lot to amuse me.

 

"The decidedly young scent for those who dare to dream."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Men's Perfumes 

 



 



Thank you for reading. Do Follow and please comment.


PS: Mention which your favourite of these is and also your favourite out of the Audrey Tautou one and Nicole Kidman one - I'd like to see if I am in a minority. :)





 

The eternal Blonde Bombshell

The eternal blonde bombshell, and Marilyn Monroe immediately springs to mind. A woman whose face we often find planted all over cheap tack, who had trouble learning the simplest lines and whose white dress in 'The Seven year itch' sold for £2.8 million in the infamous Debbie Reynolds sale. But why has this image survived over the image of other blonde bombshells of the time? Why Marilyn? Why an icon? I will not say that she did not have talent, she was a great comedy actress. For example, 'Bus Stop' proved she had skill as an actress, and I think she had a lovely singing voice, but I do not think that it is for this that we remember her. I can think of many actresses of the era who had more talent and received awards. Was it because she was beautiful? Maybe, though sexy and alluring would be more accurate description. I certainly do not think she would have reached the same status if she had not died so young. Now, fifty years after her death, she is still remembered and iconised by the young and old alike, while other people of the era are all but forgotten in the general psyche.

One thing that people often overlook with Monroe is the more intelligent side to her, which was not much fostered by her 'dumb blonde' image. She loved Goya, ahead of her time in terms of promoting civil rights, her hero was Abraham Lincoln, when she met Nikita Khrushchev, they discussed 'The Brothers Karamazov'...  and she was reading 'To kill a mockingbird' at the time of her death. Although we often like to see the young, innocent side, we forget that many described her as manipulative and shrewd, she had problems with co-stars, lines and turning up to set.

I'm not going to do a simple biography, because I'm languid today, that would take too long and you can find it elsewhere, but I will point out a few interesting items. Monroe was passionate about equal rights, indeed she helped Ella Fitzgerald, who was her friend, with her career.

"I owe Marilyn Monroe a real debt ...it was because of her that I played the Mocambo, a very popular nightclub in the '50s. She personally called the owner of the club, and told him she wanted me booked immediately, and if he would do it, she would take a front table every night. She told him -and it was true, due to Marilyn's superstar status - that the press would go wild. The owner said yes, and Marilyn was there, front table, every night. The press went overboard. After that, I never had to play a small jazz club again. She was an unusual woman - a little ahead of her times. And she didn’t know it." Ella Fitzgerald

 

+++  'Every Baby Needs A Da Da Daddy' taken from the B Movie 'Ladies Of The Chorus' (1948). This was only Marilyn's thrid film appearence and her first starring role. At 22 years old she is a far cry from the icon we know as Monroe. Nevertheless, this early performance shows how she was later groomed and trained. Her voice is deeper throughout this film - she was not doing the "breathy" thing yet... and I think this shows her in a slightly different light. +++

+++ The infamous 'Diamonds are a girl's best friend' from Gentlemen prefer Blondes where she starred alongside Jane Russell - a sex symbol at the time of a different nature - as Lorelei Lee opposite Jane Russell's Dorothy Shaw and, if it were not for this delightful number, I would have to state that Jane Russell completely stole the show though I am sure Marilyn was the main attraction for the cinemagoers. +++

Filmography:

She signed a one-year contract with 20th Century-Fox in 1946 and played minor roles in several minor movies for the studio.

Scudda Hoo! Scudda Hay! (1948) Uncredited
Ladies of the Chorus (1948)
Love Happy (1949) Uncredited
A Ticket to Tomahawk (1950) Uncredited
Right Cross (1950) Uncredited
The Fireball (1950)
The Asphalt Jungle (1950)
All About Eve (1950)
Home Town Story (1951)
As young as you feel (1951)
Love Nest (1951)
Let's make it Legal (1951)
O. Henry's Full House (1952)
Clash by Night (1952)
We're not married (1952)
Don't Bother to Knock (1952)
Monkey Business (1952)
Niagara (1953)
Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953)
How to Marry a Millionaire (1953)
River of No Return (1954)
There's No Business Like Show Business (1954)
The Seven Year Itch (1955)
Bus Stop (1956)
The Prince and the Showgirl (1957)
Some Like It Hot (1959)
Let's Make Love (1960)
The Misfits (1961)

The filming of Something's Got to Give in 1962 was suspended and Monroe fired. The film went unfinished until it was rebooted in 1963 as Move Over, Darling with Doris Day and James Garner.

+++ As much as I love Marilyn, again I think that she was outshone in 'Some like it Hot' by her co-stars, though I could never imagine anybody else doing as well in this part. +++

<<< A young Marilyn.
>>> With Jane Russell, outside Grauman's Chinese Theatre on June 26th 1953.

Thanks for Reading, do comment and please follow! Very soon, I am going to do a series of five posts chronicling, in my opinion, the 50 greatest film dresses of all time - I've already started working on it and I can honestly say that it is the most difficult series of posts I've ever done!

A Retro Rock 'n' Roll Americana

Salutations! You are about to embark with me on my exploration of one of this season's most prominent Fashion Trends. A fifties Americana. In general, this is less the ladylike fashions of last season and a more youthful and colourful 50s vibe... the type that films like 'Grease' looked at twenty years later.  So, in the spirit of the whole affair, I have put together a collection of items that remind me of 50s America in all it's forms - here's hoping the cadillac is indeed a 1950s one. Whereas I am (more or less) competent at judging what era certain clothes come from, my knowledge of cars is a lot more painfully limited. I have also included a trio of videos (with some great songs)
Off we go with a 'Bop bop-a-lu a whop bam boom!'

I will briefly look at the 1950s in two three prominent ways:

Firstly, it was a time of increased conformity and middle-class values in America, resulting in things such as the Baby Boom and due in part to the post-war affluence of the time where the all-electric home was the ideal. By 1950, about ten million homes in the USA had a television set.

Secondly, it was also a time of change (though that is, in many ways, a ridiculous statement - every time is a time of change) where Rock and Roll came to prominence towards the middle of the decade.  Fast Food Restaurants and Drive-in Theaters were built while, in Hollywood terms, the rise of the anti-hero came about with actors such as Marlon Brando and James Dean, 'the first american teenager' taking their place in female hearts. Hollywood catered to a younger generation wanting a symbol of rebellion.

Finally, it was a time of blatant white terrorism in the south (the third Ku Klux Klan, a name desormais used by several groups, began to resist social change and the self-improvement of the Blacks' by bombing transitional neighbourhoods and assassinating activists) Beginning in the 1950s as the african-american civil rights movement organised non-violent protests from approximately 1955 onwards. Politically, the cold war escalated resulting in, for example, the Korean War from 1950-1953 and the solid division of Europe into 'two camps'.

Returning to the Spring 2012 pret-a-porter collections.

At Rochas, Marco Zanini served up, what he described as, "A journey through the vortex of cinema," which, in many ways, it absolutely was - situating him neatly in the middle of the season's 50s trend. Hitchcock-esque moments with egg-shaped coats one could easily visualise on an icy blonde 'femme fatale', say Eva Marie Saint, and dresses which would not have looked out of place on Grace Kelly. However, maybe the defining point of the collection was the deliciousness of the accessories, adding the needed 50s detail, e.g. organza scarves over a demi-beehive, demi-chignon and cat's eyes sunglasses. My only qualm with the collection was a the footwear - now, I am not saying there is anything dreadfully wrong will all of it... and I have seen a review raving about it, describing it as 'especially good' but I am afraid, I was not able to shake off the feeling that a certain style of shoe in particular looked like a cross between a plastic flip-flop and something they give out in hospitals. There is, of course, the possiblity that it looks worse from the front (and the models' feet really do not help)                                                               Colours came in soft pastels, and a few delicious B&W then vibrant pink pieces. When the clothes were less silhouetted, the patterning gained prominence.

Naturally, my favourite item in this collection was the gorgeous white dress in the top right corner. Not only because it can be worn as a single piece but because I love the shape and the well-cut & defined lines. I also loved the cat's-eye sunglasses, regardless of the fact that, I believe I remember a time when I beheld every single last pair with absolute horror, although I do not recall why...  I suppose I can simply call it one of the many foolish fantasies of youth.  

At Prada, the trend was handled somewhat differently:

From the beginning, bold prints (often of the vintage cars of the 50s - muscly *insert name of car I am terrible at recognising here* with flames on their bonnets) were the order of ther day. Both shiny leather and accordion-pleated skirts made their way in abundance down the Prada catwalk.  The Midriff area (as shown in the second from the top to the left photo) was also exposed a great deal since the fashionable (and, in my opinion, stylish) waistband is high this season... and there is no reason why it should not be. If a little skin is needed this Spring, try this instead of the more commonplace belly-button area. It is just as alluring and, in my opinion, more elegant. Of course, the Prada collection has, in many ways, a younger feel than the Rochas collection but Miuccia Prada, like Marco Zanini for Rochas, also payed tribute to classical films of the era. In this case, the hilarious 'The Seven Year Itch' with the forever timeless Marilyn Monroe. The afore-mentioned accordion-pleated skirts were in many ways inspired by Marilyn Monroe's iconic white accordion-pleated dress... and this was highlighted by the fact that the models walked over a subway gate on the catwalk.

  A note has to be payed to a few other elements of every single outfit on the runway. The first of these elements is the array of amazing shoes and, though I have not posted any close-up photos, they really are something - staggering with a delightful fantasy that simultaneously manages to match the prints, on the pencil skirts in particular, perfectly! Now, if you look to the photo directly to the right, you will see another element of the 50s design at play... the gorgeous lines on this swimsuit are very reminiscent of the time, and create wonderful, alluring curves (in a very Monroe reminiscent way) At least it would, if the model wasn't so flat. Emphasising assets does not really work if you do not have assets in the first place. That aside, it is an absolutely stunning swimsuit and I simply adore this style, which is very flattering. On the right, you have a skirt and top combo showing what is, of course, an easier and looser look. You can see the accordion-pleats I previously mentioned twice.

Finally, a word for the earrings in this collection. Now, I do not really ever pay any attention to earrings. My own ears are not pierced after all and, in photos of this sort, it is easy to miss an earring. Not in this case! I simply had to mention them because I think Prada is the Spring Season Collection with the largest prominence of earrings. There were certainly some rather large, ornate concoctions with gold-rimmed gems hanging from red, ivory and venetian blue roses. The Cat's-Eye Sunglasses also made a return in this collection too.

Prada and Rochas were, naturally, not the only ones to try the 50s trend. Examples of it can be seen at Proenza Schouler (where high-waisted, glossy leather skirts with slits were presented) Nina Ricci (did wonders with the midriff) Jil Sander (a large quantity of plaid) and Marc Jacobs (pencil skirts and checked shirts) to name but a few.

Anyway, here is hoping that those of you who follow fashion can maybe be inspired by, what I perceive as, a really rather fun trend. Those of you who do not... maybe a subtle pair of cat's-eye sunglasses? ;)

Or take your cue from Marilyn in 'How to marry a millionaire' and do it with glasses - it's what Prada did in their pret-a-porter collections for Autumn 2011.

Thank you for reading (I hope I did not ramble on too much and that this makes sense. I wrote it at past midnight and really could not be bothered to check for spelling and/or grammatical mistakes. You will know why if I have substituted you're for your, and are for our... etc. Well, hopefully not that bad. Tiredness is not really an excuse to lose all understanding of the English Language.)

If you enjoyed this post, you can follow. Though you did not really need me to tell you that. Oh, and comment; that is always much appreciated even if it is negative.