Thursday, 29 December 2011

The Roaring Twenties

Howdy - and after a long absence dedicated to decorating Christmas Trees, learning lines for plays, coming up with a few designs and wrapping up presents I spent too long choosing from a wide assortment of charity shop bits-and-bobs, I'm back! ...and hopefully I shall never disappear for so long again. Yes, this may prove to be the biggest bite-my-tongue moment of the last year, but I have honestly gone past caring. So, where am I now? Planning the new year ahead with a violent mix of apprehension and ambition to make it work. Wondering how long that will last and if, now I have set a target in place, I really will be vigilant and determined enough to write one hundred blog posts in a year, specifically next year.
In the mean time, feeling the post-Christmas winter blues while finishing a glorious christmas with leftover turkey, pottering about in a new nightgown reading books by Maugham and looking forward to tonight's finale of the BBC's Great Expectations (which honestly, fits in well with my mood) with the brilliant Douglas Booth, although I was not really paying attention to his acting and maybe he is a little 'pretty'. On that note, although Estella is supposed to be cold, is she not also supposed to be a little more... beautiful? Maybe this is simply personal opinion but she left me perplexed. It would have been alright if everyone hadn't been repeatedly saying how stunning she is. On the other hand, how can one not fail to be disappointed with this modern interpretation of Estella after seeing the timeless beauty of Valerie Hobson in the 1946 version of the story? Or indeed Jean Simmons as the younger Estella.

Apologising for that minor tangent, and returning to the question at present. How have I been looking at the world of Fashion and Style for the last few days. Well, I appear to have had a personal renaissance of interest in the 1920s. The upcoming 'The Great Gatsby ' film, set for release in almost exactly a year, starring Carey Mulligan and Leonardo DiCaprio, can only whet the appetite of the fashion world. The Spring/Summer 2012 collections were littered with 20s inspired threads. I might consider this a silent curse since the twenties waistline is not always one that flatters my shape, but I am optimistically looking forward to trying the trend.

Will this style forever be popping back? Highlighting an enduring admiration of the roaring twenties with its freewheeling, popular culture and exhuberant zest for change in society, for the young and rich at the very least.

This change, concurrent with a rejection of traditional moral standards, is apparent in much more than simply clothing. Take for example, the Weimar Republic period Artists, labelled as 'degenerate' by the Nazi regime using the sudden liberation of the 1920s to create a boom in the satirical and grotesque, with expressionism becoming a feature. Groups and Movements such as Bauhaus, New Objectivity and Plakatstil gained a place in Art History which they have never relinquished.

I would continue on this route of expression and sustained education of the masses (Hmph) but can really not be asked. I can only hope this has given you something to think about. What inspired the clothes as well as how stunning they are.

Do you recall back far enough to remember Ralph Lauren's gorgeous Spring 2012 pret-a-porter collection? Some of you (certainly not me) may even recall the year the 1974 film 'The Great Gatsby' came out, with Ralph Lauren contracted to provide clothing styles for the movie. Well, with the future release of the afore-mentioned Baz Luhrmann film, 'The Great Gatsby' Ralph Lauren seems to have revisited this aspect in the clothing.


The collection was filled with feathers, cloche hats and scarves galore.
Many different distinctive styles were used in contrast, from the masculinity and forms of suits teamed with hats and pearls, to the floaty and floral gowns swimming behind as the models glided down the runway. The collection was all very pastel coloured and summery with bolder evening gowns reminiscent of Old Age Hollywood Glamour contrasted with the easy elegance of the daywear.

So yes, although I did first glance at this collection towards the twenty-somethingth of September, I wished to come back to it now in line with my general mood.

Thank you for reading and sorry for not posting anything sooner. Comment. Follow if you like.

Thursday, 8 December 2011

Javier Vallhonrat

Salutations! So... today I was intending to do a piece on items of my wardrobe, but I had miscalculated our gloomy english weater (and my eventual lack of common sense) forgetting that on the eighth of december, by half past four, the light will probably not be good enough to take any worthwhile photos. In fact, barely an hour later, and the light is not good enough to see my hand in front of my face if I am standing outside and away from the glare coming from the windows of the house.
In conclusion, I shall reserve that post for Saturday and, instead, give you an aesthetic delight. Breath-taking photographs taken by Javier Vallhonrat. Although I do admit, I initially wished to have a balanced range from his photographic portfolio, I have ended up with a larger percentage of photoshoots from the noughties than from any other time.
Anyway, I hope you enjoy... and do comment - I greatly appreciate all comments. Even if they are negative.

 Javier Vallhonrat in a Spanish Photographer, born in Madrid in 1953. He studied Painting at the Fine Arts Faculty of the University of Madrid in the early 70’s. Just after receiving a degree in Fine Arts at the University of Madrid, he reached international recognition while contributing his photos to several fashion designers. In 1992 he broadened his interest in photography and began creating advertising films, while on the side teaching photography at the Cuenca School of Fine Arts.

Today, while continuing his contribution of photos for French Vogue, Italian Vogue, Japanese Vogue, Mixte, Big, among others, Javier also teaches creative photography in various universities in Spain. 
Since 1983, Javier Vallhonrat exhibited around the world: Spain, France, Finland, Japan, Vénézula and so on:  1983, EFTA Gallery, Madrid
1986, Galería Visor, Valencia (Spain)
Porin Taidemuseo, Porin, Finland
 1989, Montmajour Abbey, Arles, 1989
1990, Parco Photographers Gallery, Tokyo
1991, 2000, 2001, LA Galerie, Frankfurt am Main
1996, Reina Sofía Museum, Madrid
Museo Santa Monica, Barcelona
 1983, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2001, 2003, ARCO, Madrid,
2002, Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin, Paris, 2002
2003, National Centre of Photography, Paris
2006, Centre Pompidou, Paris

His use of colour and light is perhaps the most striking thing, and easily recognisable as his range of work. He captures sensuality in a rare and exquisite way, and uses the environment the model is in 'd'une merveilleuse facon', creating a timeless look. He clearly has a great eye for composition, and balance of colours, especially in (what I would class as) pastel colours and warm berry colours. Personally, I love most of his photos. I love his palette, and I think there is a real elegance to his photos. It is much to be admired.
Ayura (cosmetics). Azzaro (parfum). Cacharel (parfum/cosmetics). Carte Noire. Cerruti 1881 (parfum). Chloe. Chopard Parfums. Christian Lacroix (fashion and parfum). Comme des Garcons. Eau Future (parfum). Garnier (hair). Gianfranco Ferre (parfum). Guerlain (parfums). Jesus del Pozo (parfum). Jil Sander. John Galliano (fashion). Krizia. Lancome Beaute. Lancome Parfums. Martine Sitbon. Moet et Chandon. Nichole Farhi. Nicole Matsuda (fashion). Patrizia Pepe. Rochas (parfum). Shiseido. Swarovski. Sybilla. Pollini. Versace (fashion).

His works are in various public art collections and private, has also published several books:          
  Animal Plant and Buades Editor April, Madrid, 1986
  Possessed Space, Gina Kehayoff, Munich, 1992
Autogramas, Gina Kehayoff, Munich, 1993
Banks, Editorial Mestizo, Murcia, 1996, Photographic Works, 1991-1996, Editorial Lunwerg, Madrid, 1997
Library Collection photographer from Madrid, Nr.10, PHotoBolsillo, Madrid, 1999
Javier Vallhonrat: photography as a reflection, TF editors, Alcobendas, 1999
Works 1996-2001, Hall Amos Salvador. Cultural Rioja. T.S. Publishers, 2001 Logroño
Place, City of Tarragona, 2002,
Javier Santiago speaks Vallhonrat Olmo, Ed La Fabrica, Madrid, 2003
ETH, Salamanca Arts Centre, 2003,

 COMMERCIAL FILMS:Rochas (parfum). Hypnose (Lancome). Yves Saint Laurent (make-up). Cacharel (Eden parfum). Gianfranco Ferre (parfum). Eau Future (parfum). Fructis (hair). Gaz de France. L Oreal (hair).

Sunday, 4 December 2011

Yohji Yamamoto

Hello! Not sure if you remember me - I am the person who did my last post just short of two weeks ago. Sorry. I can only hope you will understand how packed my life is at the moment... and not in a nice way.  I spent last week suffering from mock exams and, no joke, I have four scripts/passages from scripts to learn in less time than I would otherwise wish (and another one to learn by January, then possibly another by February then a full one by maybe March, or even February - again. Yay me!)

So my last post was a small break away from Japanese Fashion, and now I have come back to it with a vengeance, ready to write about the genius that is Yohji Yamamoto. Oh, and you may have noticed, I have changed the patterning of the title. I realised this would start looking stupid putting 'Pt.1, Pt.2, Pt.3 etc.' if I ever reached 'Pt.29' or something of the like.

Yohji Yamamoto is famed for his abstract silhouettes, flat shoes and unswerving loyalty to the colour black and, in both my and the general fashion world's opinion, one of the most influential and talented designers working today. His clothes are both intellectual and romantic, combining modernity segues with Parisian Haute Couture.

He was born in Japan in 1943. His Father died during the Second World War, and he was brought up by his mother, a seamstress.
He studied Law at Tokyo's Keio University before switching to Bunka School to do Fashion, from which he graduated in 1969. He established his own label two years later, in 1971, and his first show in Tokyo in 1977.
He made his Paris debut in 1981, along with his then girlfriend, the previously mentioned and talented, Rei Kawakubo. His look was dubbed 'Hiroshima Chic'  by the establishment, but became a status symbol for the urban and creative type.

His main lines are:

  • Yohji Yamamoto

  • Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME

  • Yohji Yamamoto COSTUME D'HOMME

  • COMING SOON by Yohji Yamamoto

  • <<< I wanted to do a large variety of Yohji Yamamoto pieces over time, and I could not help but add this one because it is a collection from 1995... and it is sort of cute.

    >>> I want this hat!

    <<< Yohjo Yamamoto Coat (the feathers were added for effect)   /// Yohji Yamamoto Perfume >>>

    I hope you enjoyed this. Comment. Check back soon. :)