Yohji Yamamoto

Hello! Not sure if you remember me - I am the person who did my last post just short of two weeks ago. Sorry. I can only hope you will understand how packed my life is at the moment... and not in a nice way.  I spent last week suffering from mock exams and, no joke, I have four scripts/passages from scripts to learn in less time than I would otherwise wish (and another one to learn by January, then possibly another by February then a full one by maybe March, or even February - again. Yay me!)

So my last post was a small break away from Japanese Fashion, and now I have come back to it with a vengeance, ready to write about the genius that is Yohji Yamamoto. Oh, and you may have noticed, I have changed the patterning of the title. I realised this would start looking stupid putting 'Pt.1, Pt.2, Pt.3 etc.' if I ever reached 'Pt.29' or something of the like.

Yohji Yamamoto is famed for his abstract silhouettes, flat shoes and unswerving loyalty to the colour black and, in both my and the general fashion world's opinion, one of the most influential and talented designers working today. His clothes are both intellectual and romantic, combining modernity segues with Parisian Haute Couture.

He was born in Japan in 1943. His Father died during the Second World War, and he was brought up by his mother, a seamstress.
He studied Law at Tokyo's Keio University before switching to Bunka School to do Fashion, from which he graduated in 1969. He established his own label two years later, in 1971, and his first show in Tokyo in 1977.
He made his Paris debut in 1981, along with his then girlfriend, the previously mentioned and talented, Rei Kawakubo. His look was dubbed 'Hiroshima Chic'  by the establishment, but became a status symbol for the urban and creative type.

His main lines are:

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME

Yohji Yamamoto COSTUME D'HOMME

COMING SOON by Yohji Yamamoto

<<< I wanted to do a large variety of Yohji Yamamoto pieces over time, and I could not help but add this one because it is a collection from 1995... and it is sort of cute.

>>> I want this hat!

<<< Yohjo Yamamoto Coat (the feathers were added for effect)   /// Yohji Yamamoto Perfume >>>

I hope you enjoyed this. Comment. Check back soon. :)

Japanese Fashion Pt. 2 >>> Issey Miyake

Hello! Me again - who else would it be anyhow? I hope you have all had a wonderful week and a lovely day. I made the most my day, spending all morning at my Drama Club, then all afternoon in Town, where my Maman eventually purchased a gorgeous coat from 'British Heart Foundation' for me. *Smiley Face* Update on the top ten countries: Italy has been knocked out of the top ten to be replaced by Germany.

On to today's post. I am continuing my exploration of Japanese Fashion with Issey Miyake though, admittedly, some of the designs will not be his. From 1999 to 2007, Naoki Takizawa was creative director and (since he opened his own brand) Dai Fujiwara.

Issey Miyake

• Born on 22 April 1938 in Hiroshima. As a seven year-old, witnessing and surviving the atomic bomb on August 6, 1945.
• Studied graphic design at the Tam Art University in Tokyo, graduating in 1964. After graduation, he worked in Paris and New York. Returning to Tokyo in 1970, he founded the Miyake Design Studio, a high-end producer of women's fashion.
• In the late 80s, he experimented with new methods of pleating. This resulted in the creation of a new technique called 'garment pleating'
• Issey Miyake’s style is best known for its blend of flowing fabrics and designs of Eastern style with the technology and modern sensibilities of Western style. Using a wide array of both natural and synthetic materials, Miyake likes to be seen as an artist rather than a designer, developing new ways to utilize both function and form in his designs.

The Following are different Issey Miyake lines:

• Issey Miyake - Main collection line, subdivided into men (since 1978/85) and women (since 1971)
• Issey Miyake Fête - Colourful women's line that "draws on the technological innovations of Pleats Please" (since 2004)
• Pleats Please Issey Miyake - Polyester jersey garments for women that are first "cut and sewn and then pleated - normally, fabric is first pleated and then cut and sewn (since 1989/93)
• HaaT - Women's line, designed by Miyake's former textile designer, Makiko Minagawa. (since 2000).
• A-POC - Custom-collection for men and women. Tubes of fabric are machine-processed and can be cut into various shapes by the consumer. (since 1997)
• me Issey Miyake - Line of "exclusive one-sized shirts that stretch to fit the wearer" (since 2001)
• Issey Miyake Watches - Men's and women's watches.
• Issey Miyake Parfums - Line of fragrances for men and women.
• Evian by Issey Miyake - Limited edition bottle designed by Issey Miyake for Evian water.
• 21-21 Design Sight (a play on 20/20 vision)
• The Miyake Issey Foundation

Here is my analysis of the latest collection: Issey Miyake Spring 2012, and the first collection for Yoshiyuki Miyamae.
It was beautiful, detailing the life of a flower as a metaphor for the life of a woman, done in an enchanting way.
Naturally, the head-dresses gave a great deal in helping guess the theme in question, to the point that even the dense would have had a problem not recognising the core inspiration.

On the other hand, there were a great many more subtle references. "The fagoting on seams, representing the veins on a leaf." or the slits on clothes symbolising a bud bursting.

 Bud, stem, petal, blossom, bloom... these were the key stages represented and, when I chose my top ten looks from the collection, I did remember to choose a variety rather than (for example) nine nude ones and one purple.

As the collection progresses, the delightful materials seemingly floating down the catwalk, the colours got brighter, radiating into yellow. This continued, cooling into ice blues then finally burning into an infusion of purples, vibrant oranges and pinks then chocolate browns.

The looks went from breezy and lady-like to chic, sporty looks with tight leggings, glazed over with bright, and tribal, patters. The hats always very origami-esque... as are a great many Issey Miyake Designs.

I realise that if you have just been reading this, and looking at the pictures I have used, you may get the impression that Issey Miyake is always very colourful. Although it is true that his designs are often a lot more vibrant than other japanese designers, he does do a lot of black and white shades too. In fact, his 2011 Autumn/Winter Collection was entirely monochrome.

Anywho, thank you for reading. Please comment, and tell me which of the Issey Miyake looks is your favourite. I would be interested to know. Remember to check back regularly and, if you are from Italy, tell your friends to take a look and you might be able to knock Germany back out of the top ten - who knows? :)

Japanese Fashion, Pt. 1 >>> Rei Kawakubo

Salutations to my not-so-numerous number of fans! Yes, I have not posted in fifteen days. *Small smile* but 'en revanche' I have a few little numbers ready for your enjoyment, written by yours truly. Who else? In a few days (or weeks, depending on the time available) I hope to do a little piece on eyeliner, and everything that may or may not entail. However, that which I wish to do now is a piece called Japanese Fashion, Pt.1 Oh, and in a few days, I shall also do a Fashion Piece on each of the ten countries where I have the most views... and this can honestly change at any moment... as well as putting together an outfit, again based on these countries. So, who are in the Top ten so far? The three who are pretty firmly at the top are the UK, France and the USA with, fighting for the other seven places, Spain, Poland, Russia, Canada, New Zealand and, in the danger zone, Egypt and Italy. Oh, and as I am writing this, I have just had my first noticeable views from Bulgaria... which will hopefully not get too high. I would have no idea what to come up with as an outfit - though I would

love the challenge!


Anywho, here we go again. I will kick-start my exploration of Japanese Fashion with, a personal favourite, Rei Kawakubo for 'Comme des Garcons'

 And, just for all of you who are sitting there thinking 'Who on Earth is she?' (you probably should not be reading this sort of blog) I shall give you some basic background info.

• Born on the 11th of October 1942 in Tokyo, making her a Libra - like me!
• Utrained as a fashion designer, but studied fine arts and literature at Keio University. Kawakubo worked in textiles and began working as a freelance stylist in 1967.
• In 1973, she established her own company, Comme des Garçons Co. Ltd in Tokyo and opened up her first boutique in Tokyo in 1975. Starting out with women's clothes, Kawakubo added a men's line in 1978. Three years later, she started presenting her fashion lines in Paris each season, opening up a boutique in Paris in 1982.
• Her Designs have inspired, among others, the Fashion Designers Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester (I know people who thought Kawakubo was a hard name to spell. This designer is the one also known as, the brilliant belgian fashion designer's whose name I can not spell and, when I am tired, can certainly not pronounce.

Now, I do not wish to stereotype, but Rei, like many other Japanese Fashion Designers, does have a liking for the monochrome... and unwearable pieces.

Comme des Garçons specialises in anti-fashion, austere, sometimes deconstructed garments. During the 1980s, her garments were primarily in black, dark grey or white. The materials were often draped around the body and featured frayed, unfinished edges along with holes and a general asymmetrical shape. Challenging the established notions of beauty she created an uproar at her debut Paris fashion show where journalists labeled her clothes 'Hiroshima chic' amongst other things. Since the late 1980s her colour palette has grown somewhat.
So, although interesting, this Spring/Summer 2012 collection was not exactly far off expectations when it was presented on the 1st October 2011 during Paris Fashion Week.

It was a collection influenced by different stages of life: Birth, Marriage, Death and Transcendence. This is apparent through the use of Duchesse Satin, a typical choice for a wedding dress, to represent the Marriage Stage, and even the densest of observers could not have failed to observe the wedding dress-like shapes and forms. There were also more oblique, so to speak, references. Not everybody would have picked up straight away on the pointy-headed robes like those worn by church dignitaries during Seville's Semana Santa, or the white flowers, as in 'a body laid out in white flowers'

Were there hints of the 60s? In line with the current Fashion. If you do not think so, then pray take a glance at the white boots.

Finally, was there a little of the Cristobal Balenciaga in all this. Not particularly in terms of clothes. Although there may be a similarity in silhouette with some of his designs, I do not think Cristobal was really this avant-garde. ;) No, I reference Cristobal Balenciaga, a deeply religious man who elevated the craft of couture to the level of spiritual quest. He believed he could find salvation in the perfect sleeve. It was probably coincidence that sleeves were the signal detail of the Comme collection (they were long and wide, falling almost to the floor)


Missy Rayder in 'Comme des Garcons' June
2004. Photography by Richard Burbridge.



2008 collaboration with H&M

Ok, so now I have briefed you quickly on the ins and outs of this latest collection, I shall turn matters to past collections, photo shoots and looks, letting these fabulous photos do the talking (well, with a little comment for each but, knowing it's me, it is not going ti get much better than that)
Thank you for reading. Tell your Friends. Spread the word.


Spring/Summer 1995
(The year of my Birth!)



Comme des Garcons 1990

Comme des Garcons 1982

Comme des Garcons 1997

  So... remember to check back regularly. I promise to try to post more often >> and things should get better from January onwards. Since, next year, I will be trying to aim for one hundred posts throughout the year.
Oh, and comment. I answer every comment I receive, even the negative ones, and am happy with anything.